re. Audi 200 cam,crank and h20 pump pulley teeth profiles...
Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)
BSWANN at arinc.com
Tue Sep 4 15:21:35 EDT 2001
>> looks like you should be using the earlier style 'square toothed' water
>> pump. Should be easy enough to replace while the engine is in the
>> plastic bucket, and our favorite parts suppliers carry the pump for
>> under $40.
>I think I might go the other route and get the later style cam pulley.
>I'm going to get Audi to swap it out for me. I'll also then get the
>proper damper as the one in the pictures did not come off my car.
>Would you believe the mechanic gave the engine to the engine builder
>with no pulleys, saying they were "misplaced". I don't even understand
>why the pulley was removed in the first place.
>Do you perhaps have a ballpark figure of how much a vibration costs over
>there in the States?
>Hopefully the plastic bucket will be replaced with a engine stand and/or
>engine crane when I get back from my vacation. :)
used: $10 for the old style- have a couple of old motors if you need one.
New: You got me - probably more than you want to spend.
I personally don't see that much advantage toward going with the
SuperTorque, as long as the job is done correctly in the first place and you
change the belt at 60kmi.
BTW - I have an extra stand that I don't need.
In answers to your questions:
The cam can certainly be removed without removing the pully. Maybe you want
to get an adjustable sprocket while you are at it. Did I understand you put
in a 272 grind, or was that someone else.
The water pump should be replaced when you do TB and other major work.
The Crank pully/damper needs to be removed to do the Timing Belt. When I do
these types of jobs, I at least provisionally bolt things together, or stack
them so they can't get lost..in one word - irresponsible.
Re. your paint job - The recommended color for heat transfer properties and
longevity is black. That aside, the blue non-high temp paint - kinda looks
like chevy blue, should hold up just fine, provided the block was prepped
properly. The engine temp will bake the point into a hard ceramic like
finish. I think the high temp stuff would only be necessary on exhaust
components that reach over 600 degrees F.
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